“One that will never let me see a frame drop again?” None, that’s just how it is.
As for one that will give you a satisfactory performance? It depends.
Personally, I mainly play Beat Saber, so even my 6700xt is capable enough, despite all the shortcomings AMD has in VR.
What you want to do is check what kind of games you’re playing, what resolution you want to play them at, what amount of money you’re willing to spend, and choose the GPU that fits all of that.
CPU 3600, Mobo b450m, GPU 6700(xt), RAM 16Gb 3200mhz
Something like this: https://de.pcpartpicker.com/list/WC2VTY
Comes out at 637€. A little over budget, but that’s also all new parts. It’s definitely enough for 1080p, often 1440p even.
To get the most out of the budget, I’d definitely be looking at the used market.
Definitely used 3600 for CPU. They go for very little and will pair nicely even with 3070 class cards.
Used 6700 or 6700xt for GPU, but since they aren’t as robust as CPUs, do pay closer attention to damages, dust, performance compared to benchmark, and etc.
Used case, because they don’t matter unless for looks. Just make sure it allows for air to pass through.
Heatsink can sometimes come together with CPU. I’d be spending no more than 20$ to cool this one. (However, PA120 is kinda too good to pass on, despite being overkill for the CPU).
RAM may as well be new, they aren’t very expensive. SP Xpower Turbine, Ripjaws, or Kingston Fury 2x8Gb 3200 or 3600 are all good options.
Motherboard, wouldn’t buy used. And I wouldn’t be buying the lowest chipset either. b550m DS3H would be reasonable here or b450m (“m” means mATX, which are smaller than non-m, and usually cheaper), depending on if you need the extra features of b550 chipset.
Power Supply should never be bought used, look up tier lists, and go with middle range one for reliability. 550W and over should be enough for the build. Try not to cheap out on these.
Storage, also never to be bought used. Look for M.2 NVMes. SN770 is best bang for the buck imo, but even Kingston NV2 will do fine. 256Gb is enough for OS and some additional software. Imo, that’s too little. Get at least 500Gb. Ideally, 1Tb. Mind you, you could always add more later.
In my experience, the longer you type, the faster you get at typing.
That’s like getting into the rhythm. If you do it a little and then stop, then you never become proficient as you never got into that flow.
Try learning a guitar by pulling a few strings a day. Try learning to read in a different language by reading a few letters each time. Try running by taking a few steps.
Doesn’t it sound ridiculous?
Have you ever tried learning a different language? You don’t become proficient by reading one sentence, then stopping and then another one. You do it by struggling through many, and the more you do it, the faster you learn.
Note, I’m not writing this because “boohoo, bad parenting.” It’s the first essay, who cares. (although her being 13 does make me raise a brow. I’d expect it with a 7 y.o., but 13? w/e, you do you). I just think you have a misunderstanding in how learning core-level skills work. Continuous repetition is the key.
Another glaring example is how toddlers learn languages. In a span of a couple of years, they are capable of learning a language to native level with absolutely no prior knowledge, just by listening and trying to repeat the sounds day in and day out. Just think about it.
I think it works best in combination with fingerprint scanner.
Like when your fingers are wet and are difficult to scan. Whilst trying to make the scanner work, face unlock just does it for you.
But, yes, if it were one or the other, fingerprint scanner is simply way more convenient.
I’ll add that you can always upgrade to 32Gb whenever you feel like it. It’s the simplest upgrade you can make and takes only a couple minutes.
Realistically you’d want to upgrade to 32Gb after hitting the limit on 16Gb, this way you know for sure that it’s needed. But if you’re going from DDR4 to DDR5 then might as well just go 32Gb from the start.
Be aware that 8Gb version of 3060 is practically a different card. Think of it as 3050Ti or smth.
If you care only about games, you probably want to look at 6600xt (8Gb), 6700 (10Gb) and 6700xt (12Gb), as those offer better value than 3060, or any Nvidia card from those classes for that matter.
Also Intel A750 and A770 are an option, although you’ll have to tinker a lot more with those.
Also, since you’re budgeting your housing, you could also budget (as in save now, buy outright later) the GPU. It shouldn’t be impacting your finances much if you do that.
Not every digital signature is legally binding, I’m afraid.
In my country, there are 3 types of it. A simple one (login/password), unqualified (encrypted series of numbers), and qualified (same as unqualified, but encrypted using certified means by government). The last two are stored on a physical drive.
The higher the grade, the more legal power the signature holds.
When signing it by hand from a tablet it’s the same as signing it personally where I live. Which, unlike qualified digital signature, can be used for any document.
I used to think the same.
Turns out they are a good alternative to laptops.
If you don’t need powerful hardware, then tablets allow to save space in the backpack, are way lighter and always have a touch screen, which in connection with a stylus is big deal for taking notes. Laptops with a touch screen, in comparison, cost way more (at least where I live they do).
Personally, I use it for studying and media consumption. It replaced almost all of my paper. You can also sign documents using those (depends on laws in your country). Inserting photos into documents is one thing you can’t do as easily with laptops as well.
And when I do need access to better hardware, I just remote to my PC at home.
Wait, by “dedicated PC room” did you mean like an office room?
If so, for me it’s a matter of how private I want it to be or wether or not I want to separate it from other tasks.
Personally, I’d rather separate work than gaming from my daily life. Like kitchen, I like my kitchen connected to the living room, so I can spend time with others while cooking. Whereas with work I kinda need to concentrate, so everything else would be too distracting.
Most certainly don’t. After all, it’s a luxury having a separate room specifically for your PC and other technical appliances.
However, you’ve said it yourself that it does keep things quiet. Not to mention that this way you could also connect a custom loop to your heating and make the components run cool with the heat coming off of it being put to good use. At this point you might as well make a server.
The downsides, beside the cost, are that you won’t see your creation. PC is something you put your soul into, picking all of the parts, making them all fit together the way you want them to, and if you spend time making it look pretty, it may as well serve as a decoration on your desk.
Not to mention that it’s simply easier to just put it beside your monitor, and to troubleshoot it if something happens.
Since my lemmy crashes when trying to edit the post, I’ll leave an update as a comment.
For now I’ve limited wattage supplied to CPU, which solved the issue.
So, basically, there are only 3 options which could be the cause.
Wrong automatic motherboard settings. Which seems to be the most likely option.
PSU protection gets wrongly triggered. That would be unusual, this particular model should be reliable.
Faulty CPU. This is even less likely due to the way they’re manifactured.
Could be, there are newer versions that I didn’t bother upgrading to (namely the security patch after a big loophole was found)
If that’s the case, mobo swap will be solving it regardless then. Will be updating the post if I find the root of it.
Did that, it’s in the post. 85C max out of every core under full load. That’s without fans ramping up.
Stock temp is also normal, 40-45C.
Plastic cover’s off, thermal paste is sufficient. Fans are properly connected, they are facing the right way (at least I hope they are, w/e, will be finding that out soon anyway)
I did swap the fan with the CPU. Current one is Thermaright PA 120.
I am a bit concerned about VRM temps, however. It could be that they give in under extended load. I wonder if undervolting puts an additional strain on those, but why would it if all I do is lessen CPU voltage? (Am new to undervolting, BSOD happens even at stock settings, though)
I’ll try that when swapping mobos.
Yes, the cooling is enough. I did say 85C was absolute max out of every core. And that’s without fans ramping up much.
Motherboard swap is something I wanted to do regardless. Especially since I have a good use for the old one.
I will try different RAM later on. Although it wasn’t causing issues with 5600g.
3 monitors for me
Simply because I want 2 stacked on top of each other with 1 more vertical on the side for apps like Discord, Notepad, etc.
It has a lot to do with my job, though. Otherwise, I would’ve just taken 2 monitors.
Ultrawides don’t have this versatility. They are great for immersion, however.